nicole in ‘nam

I was very pleased to be invited as an observer to the 5th annual AUNILO (ASEAN University Network Inter-Library Online) meeting, hosted by the Vietnam National University in Ho Chi Minh City.

The topic of the conference was Institutional Repositories and AUNILO Integration.  I helped Mr. Chansy write his report on methos for improving integration and knowledge sharing among ASEAN region University Librarians.  The keynote speaker was Dr. Patricia Oyler of Simmons College, in Boston.  She is also somehow affiliated with IFLA, though I forget her exact title!

During the conference I got to know quite a few really lovely people, including 2 librarians from VNU Hanoi, Mrs. Yen and Miss Ly, who were staying at the same hotel as me.  Participants at the conference included librarians from Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore, the Phillipines, Thailand, Brunei, and Indonesia.

Me and Miss Ly at VNU Ho Chi Minh Central Library
Me and Miss Ly at VNU Ho Chi Minh Central Library

I also had the opportunity to visit the Ho Chi Minh City Public Library, on a visit arranged by a woman I met at the conference.  It’s a very nice library.  One interesting feature I noticed in a lot of the public buildings in HCMC was that they had been built specifically to stay cool in hot weather, so they don’t need air conditioning, except in computer labs.  This saves quite a bit of money on electricity costs, and is better for the environment.

We had a nice dinner at the Majestic Hotel, and I managed to get a group picture:

group dinner
group dinner

In Vietnam the national costume is an Ai O (sp?) for women, which is basically long silk trousers and a shirt dress worn over the top.  This means women in Vietnam wear trousers much more often than in any other non-western country I have ever visisted.  In Cambodia they seem to wear a lot of Pajamas, matching tops and bottoms, all day?  In laos the national costume for women is the Sin, or Lao skirt, so you don’t see many women in pants.

me and the ladies of VNU HCMC Central Library
me and the ladies of VNU HCMC Central Library

After the conference all of the participants went on a visit to the Mekong Delta, where we had a lovely day of sight-seeing and shopping, and eating excessively.

Then I began my trip from HELL.

So, Miss Ly and Mrs. Yen had counselled me that it would be better for me to leave for Chau Doc, where one takes a boat to Phnom Penh, from My Tho, the city in the Mekong Delta where the AUNILO group had planned to visit on Saturday, rather than go with the group back to Ho Chi Minh City, and leave from there, since My Tho would be closer for me.   I spoke with one of the ladies from VNU HCMC and arranged to go to the My Tho bus station directly once our visit was over, while everyone else took the tour group bus back to HCMC.  After a lovely day visiting some islands in the Mekong Delta and eating excessively, we returned to the place where we had left the tour group bus that morning, and everyone, but me, got on.  The tour guide said he would find me a taxi to take me to the bus station.  A few moments later, a taxi pulled up.  After some rapid conversation in Vietnamese,  I was told that the bus to Chau Doc had just left, and if  I went to the bus station  I would have to wait over an hour for the next one.  Then  I was told that the taxi driver would take me to a place where  I could get a minivan to Chau Doc more quickly.  It sounded good to me, so  I said goodbye to everybody and got in the taxi.  A few minutes later the taxi dropped me off on the side of the road, at a gas station.  Before  I could realize where  I was, some man approached me and  I told him “Chau Doc”.  He took my bag, and waved me into a corner, where he gave me a tiny chair, and then spent 5 minutes trying to use a calculator to get it to say “150,000”.  Finally he got it to work and showed me, and I, knowing this wasn’t the dude to deal with, said “No.”  He mistook my “no” for a “i’m stupid”and then took 150,000 dong in currency out of wallet and waved it in front of my face, like  I can’t read a calculator screen.   I tried to tell him it should be less than 84,000, since that was the price from Ho Chi Minh.  After a few minutes of him mumbling at me in Vietnamese,  I just got up and walked away.  A car pulled up and  I said “Chau doc?” and at that moment the dude comes running out and starts speaking in Vietnamese to the driver of the car.  The next thing  I know they are saying “150,000”.   I say “No”.  More rapid Vietnamese with the dude, the car drives away.  This happens about 3 times, and then finally  I just decide to walk as far away from this guy as possible, feeling frustrated.   I get about 20 meters, mind you at 3:00 pm on a hot Saturday afternoon in southern Vietnam, and see a shop that is shady and will definitely have iced coffee.   I look ahead and see more bleak, dusty, sunny road.   I decide to sit down, have a coffee, and relax a minute after having to deal with the asshole, and think  about my current predicament.
I am about to sit down, and a car pulls up, and stops, and some one says “Chau Doc?”   I should have known something was fishy, but  I just want to go at this point.   I say “how much?” and they say “150” and  I say “no.” and then they say “100”, and finally  I just say ok and get in the car.  As soon as  I do this,  I see the asshole dude running up, and the driver of the car slipping him some money.  At first  I just felt irritated, but only later  I would realize the true extent to the horror and evils of this man.
It’s really hot and sweaty inside this van.   I manage to doze off, and an hour later we get out at another gas station.  Everyone disappears to eat some pho, but i’m not feeling hungry so  I just wait by the van.  A ½ hour passes, and the drivers and passengers finally come back from eating their pho.  The driver comes up to me, points some guy out to me, and says “ok, you get out here.  This guy will help you.”, while some one takes my bag out of the van.  Now  I realize  I am going to have to wait here for another hour for another van, that this one was never going to chau doc on the first place, and just picked me up and took my money and spilt it with the asshole dude.   I see the driver hand the guy he pointed to some money, and then in 10 seconds everyone is gone. 
The guy who is supposed to help me disappears for 10 minutes, while the security guards try to ask me my name and how old  I am and play silly games with each other.  Finally the guy comes back.   I tell him to give me the money back that the guy gave him.   I was pretty sure  I had seen that it was 60,000. he takes 30,000 out of his pocket, and  I say “no, 60,000” and he makes me understand that the 60,000 was for me and some other guy.  So  I take the 30,000, and say “ok, go away.”  thinking  I will find a van on my own, and  I didn’t trust anybody  I thought was holding my money, and feeling irritated hat  I had just paid 70,000 dong to go about 30 km.  So  I wait a few minutes, just flagging down any van that passes.  None stop.  Finally one that says “chau doc” in the window stops, and some lady gets out.   I say, desperately “chau doc?” and there is some hesitation, but  I am already clamouring to get away from these assholes and so they put me on the van and we take off down the road.  At this point,  I am happy to be away from the people who conspired to take me money unfairly, and moving.  This driver asks for 60,000.   I give him the money, and tuck into my novel.
3 hours later, it’s pitch black out, and the van stops for gas.  The driver tosses out me and my bag, points at a lady, and says “chau doc”. 
I look around.   I am in the middle of no where, at a Vietnamese gas station.  There are no lights to be seen. I’m pretty sure it’s not chau doc, so the only thing  I can do is try to figure out where  I am and how to get to chau doc.   I go up to the lady working at the desk, and say “chau doc?”.  She has absolutely no comprehension of what  I have just said to her.   I repeat myself, several times.  Finally she takes out a pencil and a piece of paper.  Thank god Vietnamese uses roman characters!  If  I had ben in thailand,  I would have been fucked.   I wrote “chau doc” on the paper, she said “chau doc”, and  I said “yeah, that’s what  I said!”  she said something, and wrote on the paper “19’30”, about an hour from the current time.   I try to ask “how far?” but she does not understand, so  I wirte “Km ?” on the paper, and she writes “70 km”.  So  I am still 70 km from Chau Doc, in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by people who  I cannot at all communicate with.   I sat down and tried to relax for a minute, and resign myself to the situation.   I read for a while, being miserably bitten by mosquitos.  At 19’20,  I start anxiously watching the road.  Nothing.  At 19’45  I start looking with pleading eyes at the lady who runs the gas station.   I am thinking to myself “Am  I going to have to spend the night here on this bench being bitten by mosquitos?”, and on the verge of crying.  The lady takes sympathy on me, and  I see her get on her phone.  A few moments later she waves to me, and again, on the little paper, writes “ ’30”.   I look at the clock, and  I write “ 20’20 ? ” .  She nods her head yes.   I say thank you, and want to believe it, but am skeptical.   I picture my night on the bench and try to prepare myself to deal with that situation.  15 minutes later, a van that says “Chau Doc” in the window pulls up, and  I am filled with joy.   I get in, and vigourously thank the lady at the gas station and wave good bye. 
And,  I am off on the 4th leg of the journey so far that day, or 6th, if you count taxis.  We drive for a while, and soon are stopped at some kind of toll booth.  This takes a while, and  I have absolutely not idea where we are.  Finally, we are moving again, and this time up a ramp, and onto a ferry!   I wasn’t expecting a boat ride on the trip, so it was a little exciting.  It reminded me a lot of the scene in “The Lover” where Marguerite Duras is crossing the Mekong on the ferry with her fedora and high heels and the rich chinese man chats her up.   I get out of the van and look around for any potential sugar daddies, but don’t see any.   I stand at the railing while we cross the delta.  It’s dark, and serene, and slow.  Finally we arrive on the other side, which  I guess from my map is a large town, still about 40 km from Chau Doc.   I get back in the van, and we continue our voyage.   I doze off for a minute, and then, the next thing  I know,  I am being thrown out of the van.  “Chau Doc” says somebody.  Its 10:30 pm.  It has taken me 7.5 hours to get to go about 150 km.   I am so filthy when  I touch my skin the dirt actually rolls up in little balls under my fingers.
I get a motorcycle to take me to the nearest cheap guest house, eat a bowl of pho, shower, and pass out.
And that was the trip from hell.
I tried to remain in good humour for most of it, and my technique for doing so was thus: I thought about all of the horrific, awful, terrible taxi/transit situations I had to deal with in Benin, and as bad as things were, I knew it could be infinitely worse.  At least I wasn’t being held against my will by 5 marché mamans in a tiny car full of buckets of live catfish.

The next morning, bright an early at 7 am,  I am on my way again, this time to the boat dock to catch a fast boat to Phnom Pehn, which leaves at 8, and arrives at 1pm.
If only things could be that simple…

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One thought on “nicole in ‘nam

  1. IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII can’t believe that you went through all that…. You are such a trooper! I wish I was there (SLASH) I am now worried!

    —-Amanda

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